Most colored gemstones grow in nature with heavy concentrations of flaws. We call these flaws “inclusions.” Some colored stones grow with relatively few inclusions. When inclusions are too heavy, light is diverted from its path and the stone appears flat or milky. When a stone is available with few inclusions, when most specimens of that variety grow with heavier flaws, its cost may increase rapidly because of the rarity of that crystal. As with diamond, inclusions that break open onto a surface might create a durability problem. Inclusions that block light and/or are visible to the eye may greatly reduce the cost of even some fine colors.
Colored gemstones grow in many shapes, influencing the shape of the polished gem. Most emeralds in the market are oval, square or rectangular, therefore a round emerald, especially a fine quality stone, may be pricier simply because there are comparatively few round emeralds available in larger carat weights.
As with a diamond, the quantity and quality of light that explodes from the surface of a colored gemstone has tremendous influence on the appearance of its color, and its ultimate cost. A rare color like a crimson red ruby that is poorly cut may appear flat and lifeless to the eye, reducing its value.
As a group, colored gemstones scratch and chip more easily than diamonds. Hardness refers only to the ability of a stone to resist being scratched while durability refers to the ability of a stone to resist chipping and abrasions. The hardest colored gemstones, sapphire and ruby, are still much softer than diamond, 20 to 40 times softer. If worn in rings daily, especially in larger sizes, they will scratch and chip over time. Discuss the hardness and durability of your colored stone with your jeweler, and receive advice on how to set it, when and where to wear it and how to keep it clean.
Jun 25, 2017 | TOM TIVOL
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