Posted by Tom Tivol Jewels on Monday, March 27, 2017 · Leave a Comment
This rose gold and diamond engagement ring and curved fitted wedding band is a good example of the more intense deeper rose color. I create this rose color in 2 ways: First, I add a bit more copper to the mix. Second, I use a rose color flash plating over the solid 14k rose gold ring. The plating creates both deeper color and brighter color.
Common sense suggests that as the quantity of gold in a ring increases, say from 10k then to 14k then to 18k then to 22k, (24k is pure gold … no alloys are present), the quantity of metal alloys decreases. For example, in 18k gold jewelry, the gold portion is 75% of the entire ring and the alloys are 25%. In 14k gold jewelry, the gold portion is 58.5% and the alloys are 41.5%. So, to create beautiful rose gold engagement rings in 18k, more copper must be added and specific attention is paid to the rose flash plating. By the way, rose flash plating is similar to rhodium plating, which is used in almost all white gold jewelry, to help the ring remain its silvery white color. Jewelers know that all plating eventually wears off, and most jewelers offer to re-plate the wedding jewelry they sell either for free or with a very minor fee. You can request from jewelers more intense or lighter rose gold, in most karat weights.
One important caution to note when ordering rose gold jewelry: Prongs that hold diamonds should not be constructed of rose gold. They should be constructed with either white gold or platinum. Yes, they can then be plated with rose, but as I suggested above, you should not expect the plating to last forever. Platinum prongs holding a beautiful center stone and white prongs or beads holding diamonds in a halo, when the rest of the ring is rose, creates beautiful and timeless jewelry. While rose gold is considered a “fashion color,” it is never considered trendy when used for wedding jewelry. It has been around for many decades, its popularity shifting with the mood of ring designers and the interest of women placing rich reddish pink color against their skin.