P290:18k Gold, Amethyst and Golden Sapphire French Flower Pin
One of the truly great French designers of the last 50 years of the 20th century was Jean Viteau. He used his remarkable talent to recreate nature in metal and gemstones. This luxurious and beautiful flower pin is one example. The center cabochon amethyst rises above the plane of the curling leaves. Its color is astonishingly deep and bright simultaneously. Flashes of rose-purple explode as you turn the pin under normal light. The very plain simple gold bezel separating the amethyst from the busy petals is a beautiful design feature that is easy to overlook. The petals themselves undulate and curl. If you look at the several hundred golden sapphires from the reverse side, you will see each gemstone is “ajoured.” This means it is “open to the daylight.” The only reason to create those geometric sections in back is purely for the sake of art, to make the pin as beautiful from the back as from the front.. Ajouring represents the highest compliment to the designer and the setter. All of Jean Viteau’s pieces have it. His trademark signature appears on the back on the gold supporting the amethyst.
18k yellow gold; 224 round faceted golden sapphires, total weight about 25 carats, set in 14 leaves; cabochon amethyst, weight estimated about 18 carats; 2 and ½ inches diameter; 39.2 grams; Jean Viteau signature on back.